Tea, pine needles - plus everything I've said before. That cognac-vapour opening, cherry blossoms across the palate, then the shape-shift: mushrooms, autumn leaves, forest moss, aged bai mu dan. Beautiful fruit throughout. Bressan wrestling with coulure and millerandage to make barely a pound of fruit per vine, and it shows - concentrated like a haiku, light-bodied but impossibly dense with meaning.
This is properly extraordinary. Opens with cognac vapours and pine resin, then cherry blossoms explode across the palate like springtime in a bottle. The nose alone could seduce a saint - all perfume and red fruit wrapped in floral silk. Light-bodied but concentrated like a haiku, with nervy acidity keeping everything taut. Then the wine shape-shifts: mushrooms appear from nowhere, followed by autumn leaves, forest moss, aged bai mu dan with its delicate oxidative notes. It's like watching seasons change in your glass. Five years in acacia has turned this impossible Moscato Rosa into something that rivals Rosé des Riceys for complexity and sheer bloody-mindedness. Bressan wrestling with coulure and millerandage to make barely one pound of fruit per vine? Worth every struggle. Insane wine.
