Saint-Aubin Le Ban

Oh, what a character this wine has. But does its depth and complexity justify the flaws? Hard to say. The biggest hurdle right now is age - it's simply far too young. It darts between extremes, both in aroma and in acidity. Give it a little time and it does reshapes your impression of it, but not too much. A textbook adolescent - volatile, rebellious, but (?) oddly captivating.

It all starts with those peculiar berries like viburnum (which some associate with old socks), lingonberries, and other tart-bitter Nordic wildlings. There's a barnyard note and heaps of VA. Sauerkraut too. On the palate - razor acidity, a long fruit-punch-like finish that leans out of balance. But give it air, and the story shifts dramatically. The same general profile, but now a few softer notes enter - raspberries, sour cherries, something tender. A semblance of balance emerges. And there's this lovely bitter wormwood twist on the finish - I'm always a sucker for that.

Sure, it's crafted by different hands, but I can't help but wonder - will it ever echo the 2004? That the only other vintage I've tasted.

In any case, this wine is fiercely specific - and absolutely not for everyone.