
2018
Region
Moldova › Valul lui Traian
Type
white · traditional · sparkling · brut
Grapes
Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier, Pinot Noir
Alcohol
12.5%
Volume
750 mL
Dosage
7 g/L
Disgorged
2024-09-24
On lees
>36 months
Brioche, honey, almonds, baked pears, citrus, a touch of white flowers, and a jerez sherry-leaning thread that runs through both nose and palate. Vinous and intense, creamy, with baked apples, butter, quince, and a faint pithy bitterness like crushed apple seeds. Good acidity that the dosage covers a bit too much, smooth and silky on the texture. A tiny hint of gooseberry tropicality - not vulgar, but more than I'd want from this register. Tarte aux amandes. A favourite of the night despite the slight tropical lean.
The Reserve Brut is Radacini's limited-edition flagship - the small-batch top of the catalogue, priced at roughly 750 MDL, well above the Métier premium series at around 275 MDL. Chardonnay-led, with Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier rounding it out in the Champagne triad, second-fermented in bottle and aged on the lees for over thirty-six months before disgorgement in September 2024.
The sparkling fruit comes primarily from Radacini's vineyards in Peresecina village in the Codru PGI - the source of the house's traditional-method line, where the Métier programme was first developed. Reserve takes that fruit base further: tighter selection from exceptional vintages, longer lees ageing, and partial barrel work on the base wine for parts of the blend.
Moldova's classic-grape sparkling has matured fast over the last decade - large modern facilities, well-understood viticulture, prices that sit well below Champagne. The Reserve Brut is the producer's argument for what the country can do at the top end.
Another Moldovan labeling mystery. The label claims 24 months sur lie, technical sheets claim >36 months sur lie, but the bottling date suggests ~60 months. Who knows? Sparkling labeling isn't Moldova's strong suit. Ion Luca from Carpe Diem recommended this, and he wasn't wrong. Despite the timid dosage (7 g/l according to the label, and you can feel it), this is serious, compelling wine. Intense nose of brioche, honey, jerez, almonds, spices, baked pears, citrus, touch of white flowers. Vinous and intense on the palate - jerez-y, creamy, with baked apples, butter, quince. Some bitterness like crushed apple seeds (I usually like this, though here it could integrate better, so be careful). Good acidity (yay!), smooth, silky texture. Tiny hint of tropicality - think gooseberries - but nothing vulgar. Neat wine. Would kill to taste this with lower dosage.