Barberry Garden

A wine corner in a crazy world


Villányi Portugieser - 2020


3.60 / 5.0

red still, dry
Villány DHC, Hungary
Blauer Portugieser
475 UAH, 462 UAH
not available
Hummel Villányi Portugieser 2020


3.60 / 5.0750 ml@Wix Kyiv Office · Wine o'clock with People

An expected bottle variation. Again. Less smoky than other bottles I tasted, yet it shares the same vector - black currant pie mixed with VA, rosemary, and wormwood. Lovely combination, right? Yet it smells good. Bright and juicy, yet it feels heavy, especially because of lacking acidity.

Wine #4 on Wine o'clock with People event.

3.60 / 5.0750 ml@Home

A bottle variation. More smokey than the previous one. It's still a black currant pie with spices and VA, but now with added prunes and cured meat. Juicy, aggressive and bright. At least it's tasty.

3.60 / 5.0750 ml@Home

Expressive black currant pie with notes of sweat, smelly cranberry, nail polish remover, and some common bakery spices. Woosh, not my grandmother's recipe for sure. At least she didn't add so many spices. On the palate, it's pretty aggressive, thanks to dry tannin, lifted acidity and flavours of VA. This Blauer Portugieser (my first one, by the way) is a typical example of low-intervention wine that nimbly surprises inexperienced people. Bright, expressive, and straightforward. Yet it has something to offer for a good value.


Horst Hummel was born near Stuttgart. His family is a Schwabian/Hungarian mix. His great-grandfather was a winemaker in the Austro-Hungarian empire. In 1997 Horst visited Hungary, mostly to get a sense of his family origins. Passionate about wine, he wanted to visit the best winemaking regions during that trip. And so he came to Villány (southern Hungary). And he fell in love with the climate and wine culture. Horst casually asked his hosts about the price for vineyards. And just within days, he became a happy owner of a plot in Villány. By 1998 Hummel winery was up and running. Today Horst lives in Berlin but often commutes back and force between his home and Villány.

Weingut Hummel practices organic farming since 2008 and follows biodynamic principles since 2016. On the 7.5 ha vineyards, they grow Kékfrankos, Portugieser, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Furmint, Traminer, and Hárslevelű.