
2022
Region
Spain › Galicia › Vino de Mesa
Type
white · still
Grapes
Lado, Treixadura
Alcohol
12.5%
Volume
750 mL
Sugar
0.2 g/L
More expressive and more typical than my previous encounter, where it was frustratingly tight and closed. Still Champagne in spirit - that lees richness, that structure. Beautiful. Freaking delicious.
Ollos de Roque, the flagship wine of the Fazenda, is produced from vines that are relatively young, with many grafted onto youthful rootstocks. The grapes are exclusively sourced from the organically and biodynamically cultivated Augalevada vineyard, which is characterized by its granite composition. This vineyard yields a blend of Treixadura, Lado, and Agudelo grapes, each contributing unique qualities to the wine.
The winemaking process for Ollos de Roque involves the direct pressing of the grapes, followed by a fermentation phase that is partly conducted in stainless steel tanks at very low temperatures. This is complemented by another portion of the fermentation in old oak barrels, enhancing the wine's complexity. The ageing process is distinct, with one-third of the wine matured in amphoras and two-thirds aged in old oak barrels of 600-litre and 840-litre capacities for a duration of ten months. A notable addition to the cellar starting in 2020 is the ancient 500-litre Jerez barrels, estimated to be over 100 years old, which have significantly influenced the wine's profile.
A preliminary comparison between the French oak barrels and the older Jerez barrels reveals intriguing differences. Wines aged in Jerez barrels exhibit a more cohesive and analogue frequency, while those in the relatively younger neutral oak barrels tend to have a slightly edgier character. The evolution of the wines in these ancient barrels is anticipated with keen interest.
The grapes themselves bring unique characteristics to the blend. Treixadura, known for its complex profile and rapid acidity changes close to harvest, is picked early in the Augalevada vineyard to retain freshness and capture its distinctive herbal and citrus notes. Lado, appreciated for its high acidity and balanced phenolic maturity, is making a resurgence in the region. Agudelo, a regional biotype of Chenin Blanc, contributes significant acidity, texture, and mineral qualities to the blend, resonating with the geological similarities between Ribeiro and France's Anjou wine region. The Ollos de Roque, thus, is a harmonious blend that encapsulates the unique terroir and varietal characteristics of its origin.
Beautiful wine that's frustratingly young. Even with aggressive aeration, it keeps its secrets close. But what it does reveal - yellow fruits mingling with acacia honey, raw hazelnuts, bruised apple - is insanely lovely. The structure's all there: high acidity that somehow feels balanced, minerality that runs deep, a touch of salt on the long finish. This is a wine caught between what it is and what it will become. Already delicious, but you can feel all the unsaid things waiting in the wings. Patience required.