Piero Busso Barberesco San Stunet 2021

4.3
Region
Italy » Piedmont » Barbaresco DOCG
Type
red still, dry
Producer

Piero Busso

Vintage
2021
Grapes
Nebbiolo
Alcohol
14.5
Volume
750 mL
Cellar
not available
Piero Busso Barberesco San Stunet 2021

The estate's highest vineyard at 400 meters in Treiso commune encompasses 1.5 hectares of what Pierguido calls "crazy steep, windy, and completely exposed" terrain. Yellow marls with limestone dominate the thin soils, creating conditions so extreme that harvest occurs 10 days after other sites. The 25-35 year old vines undergo traditional fermentation with careful extraction, followed by two years in large oak - these wines need an additional 1-2 years to show their best.

Ratings

OK, this is stupidly my style. Super delicate, feminine in all the right ways - floral, perfumed, the kind of nose you just want to keep returning to. It's love at first sniff. The tea thing here is more refined Ya'an than the Liu An basket tea character in Busso's other wines. Touch of meat and liquorice keeping it grounded. Of the whole lineup, this is the only one actually ready to drink today. Juicy, delicate, beautiful, dangerously drinkable. This is Nebbiolo in silk gloves, whispering sweet nothings. Exactly what I want from Barberesco when I'm not in the mood for a fight.

About Producer

The Piero Busso story begins with heartbreak. In 1948, Guido Busso hand-planted his first Nebbiolo vines in the Albesani cru of Neive, only to die from tetanus at age 32 before seeing his first harvest. His widow, Ada, maintained the vineyard for three decades, selling most fruit to neighbours while keeping the dream alive. When his son, Piero, abandoned his veterinary studies to return home in 1979, driven by an irresistible yearning for the Langhe, he bottled the estate's first commercial Barbaresco in 1982. Today, under third-generation leadership since 2010, the 10-hectare estate has transformed from local producer to what critics call "among the absolute finest Barbaresco has to offer," with holdings across four prestigious crus and vines ranging from 25 to 80 years old.

Pierguido Busso, who took over daily operations in 2010, follows a philosophy of radical terroir transparency. All Barbaresco crus receive identical vinification - same 40-45 day macerations with submerged cap, same indigenous yeast fermentation, same 2-3 years in 25-hectoliter Slavonian oak casks - deliberately eliminating winemaking variables to highlight each vineyard's unique character. The estate has been certified organic since 2019, though they've avoided synthetic herbicides since the 1970s. Harvest involves no more than eight experienced pickers using 15-18 kilogram baskets, with the same team returning for 10-15 years. Pierguido describes their approach as "80% viticulture, 20% cellar work," emphasising minimal intervention to preserve site expression.

Piero Busso represents a distinctive model for Barbaresco's evolution - maintaining traditional long macerations and large oak ageing while embracing organic certification and scientific precision. The estate's 50,000 annual bottle production across four crus allows unprecedented terroir comparison through identical winemaking, while old-vine selections from plantings dating to 1948 connect directly to the founder's original vision. Under Pierguido's "fastidious and exacting" management, sleepless nights over even minor cellar renovations reflect an obsession with preserving ambient yeasts and terroir integrity. This combination of historical continuity, technical rigour, and minimal intervention has elevated a family tragedy's legacy into what many consider Barbaresco's most exciting contemporary producer - proof that in wine, as in life, the most profound expressions often emerge from the deepest roots.

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