Ollos de Roque
2020
Region
Spain › Vino de Mesa
Type
white · still
Grapes
Lado, Treixadura
Alcohol
12%
Volume
750 mL
Sugar
0.29 g/L
Tasting Notes
Compared to the 2021, this is massively more developed - suspiciously so. Maybe it's the bottle, maybe 2020's mildew issues, who knows. It's gone full geriatric Champagne on me, all boiled onions and Jura funk with bakery notes threading through. Still salty, still maritime, but the acid has been domesticated. It's become too polite. Easy drinking? Quite so. Technically accomplished? Absolutely. But it's lost that electric tension that makes you pay attention. Like watching a punk band go corporate - professionally better, emotionally worse. Still great wine, just... safer than I'd like.
Finally getting to taste this long-anticipated wine, it didn't disappoint. It showcases a typical flor-driven bouquet, brimming with the sweetness of honey, the zesty tang of lime fruit, the freshness of sea breeze, and the earthiness of pine nuts. On the palate, it's an intricate dance of freshness, complexity, and delightful saltiness, all coming together to create a delicious experience. The aftertaste lingers impressively, both long and rich in flavour. This wine excels in its depth and craftsmanship, presenting a profound profile that's smoothly rounded, without any harsh edges.
About
Ollos de Roque, the flagship wine of the Fazenda, is produced from vines that are relatively young, with many grafted onto youthful rootstocks. The grapes are exclusively sourced from the organically and biodynamically cultivated Augalevada vineyard, which is characterized by its granite composition. This vineyard yields a blend of Treixadura, Lado, and Agudelo grapes, each contributing unique qualities to the wine.
The winemaking process for Ollos de Roque involves the direct pressing of the grapes, followed by a fermentation phase that is partly conducted in stainless steel tanks at very low temperatures. This is complemented by another portion of the fermentation in old oak barrels, enhancing the wine's complexity. The ageing process is distinct, with one-third of the wine matured in amphoras and two-thirds aged in old oak barrels of 600-litre and 840-litre capacities for a duration of ten months. A notable addition to the cellar starting in 2020 is the ancient 500-litre Jerez barrels, estimated to be over 100 years old, which have significantly influenced the wine's profile.
A preliminary comparison between the French oak barrels and the older Jerez barrels reveals intriguing differences. Wines aged in Jerez barrels exhibit a more cohesive and analogue frequency, while those in the relatively younger neutral oak barrels tend to have a slightly edgier character. The evolution of the wines in these ancient barrels is anticipated with keen interest.
The grapes themselves bring unique characteristics to the blend. Treixadura, known for its complex profile and rapid acidity changes close to harvest, is picked early in the Augalevada vineyard to retain freshness and capture its distinctive herbal and citrus notes. Lado, appreciated for its high acidity and balanced phenolic maturity, is making a resurgence in the region. Agudelo, a regional biotype of Chenin Blanc, contributes significant acidity, texture, and mineral qualities to the blend, resonating with the geological similarities between Ribeiro and France's Anjou wine region. The Ollos de Roque, thus, is a harmonious blend that encapsulates the unique terroir and varietal characteristics of its origin.
