Barberry Garden

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Boréal - 2020


4.0 / 5.0

France » Champagne AOC
white traditional sparkling, brut nature
On lees
~15 months
Pinot Noir
2790 UAH
not available
Clandestin Boréal 2020

Boréal 2020 is a special creation from Clandestin, deriving from north-facing vineyards (20-35 years old) of Pinot Noir in the commune of Buxières-sur-Acre. These vineyards, cooler than most in the village, produce wines with pronounced minerality and bright, crunchy berry flavours. The winemaking process involves fermentation and ageing in French oak barrels, followed by 15 months sur latte. In line with Clandestin's philosophy, Boréal is disgorged without any dosage.

As Doussot has gradually increased his production, he has started to separate Pinot Noir based on the different exposures of the parcels. This allows for a more nuanced expression of each site's unique characteristics. Boréal 2020 is a prime example of this approach, showcasing the distinct qualities of its north-facing terroir, resulting in a Champagne that is both precise and intensely mineral.


4.0 / 5.0750 ml@Wix Kyiv Office · Champagne Bag Vol. 1

The wine's pale salmon hue is reminiscent of a rosé. Its bouquet is intriguing, with notes of caramel, slightly baked red apple, red berries, and cinnamon. On the palate, it's fresh, mineral, and rather thin. The oak is well-integrated, imparting a variety of spices without weighing down the palate. It's delicate with good acidity and a long, flavourful aftertaste that echoes fresh green apple, shells, and red currant. Overall, it's more captivating on the nose than on the palate.

Wine #2 on Champagne Bag Vol. 1 event.


Founded by Benoit Doussot, a Meursault-trained winemaker, Clandestin is a unique micro-negociant estate located next to Vouette. Doussot, who has significant experience working at Vouette with Bertrand and Hélène, established Clandestin with a focus on small, often overlooked vineyard parcels and expositions. These hidden or 'clandestine' sites include Pinot Noir on Kimmeridgian limestone and Chardonnay on Portlandian limestone. Emphasizing organic farming practices, the fruit is meticulously harvested by hand.

Doussot's winemaking philosophy is deeply influenced by his training in Meursault, particularly evident in his use of French oak barrels for ageing. His approach results in Champagnes that resonate with purists, distinguished by their minerality, precision, and clarity. A key aspect of his methodology is the insistence on harvesting perfectly ripe grapes, which is not the norm in Champagne. This approach often leads to Champagnes being bottled with no dosage, allowing the distinctive oceanic terroir to prominently feature.