Barberry Garden

A wine corner in a crazy world

More

Gut Oggau Uncorked

·

EN

·

Boris Buliga

A family reunion


some random image you can find on barberry garden
Photo by Julia Kotliar

Family albums can be approached in many ways. Some gather relatives into stiff poses for a single photo to be placed in every home. Others draw a family tree and green it with little face leaves. And some notice a connection between the character of a wine and a relative, naming the former after the latter. Just look at this family gathering! I can't help but wonder how many warm and gritty life stories are hidden behind these faces. But someone rightly asks – is this family real? After all, we create myths through interactions with the world around us.

That's exactly what Eduard and Stephanie Tscheppe did in 2007 when they founded Gut Oggau in Burgenland, Austria. Before this, Eduard was making wine with his father in Styria, while Stephanie worked in her family's Michelin-starred restaurant, Taubenkobel. Their project began in a 17th-century winery, which they restored after 20 years of neglect. It was a challenging task, but since no one had touched the vineyards for all those years, Eduard and Stephanie could employ biodynamic practices from day one.

But when it came to the cellar, they noticed how diverse the wines were from different plots and vineyards. They became so fascinated by these differences that they designed an entire family—giving each wine a name and describing its character, which the artist Jung von Matt brought to life on these catchy labels.

The children—Atanasius, Theodora, and Winifred—are wines that are more straightforward, light, bold, and energetic. The parents—Joschuari, Emmeram, Timotheus, and Josephine—come from vineyards with more direct sun exposure, resulting in more ripeness and wines with more body and power. Finally, the grandparents—Mechtild and Bertholdi—come from two single vineyards of older vines, producing the most traditional wines in their lineup. Most of the vineyards are field blends, so there's little mention of specific grape varieties, but they work with six varieties: Blaufränkisch, Zweigelt, Grüner Veltliner, Welschriesling, Weissburgunder, and Gewürztraminer.

So these are wines with personalities, and we, as non-wine personalities, have the tough task of tasting this myth from Burgenland. And that's where Vasyl steps in with the perfect suggestion—why hide away in some bar or restaurant when you can rent a pavilion by the lake and turn a regular event into a Middle-Eastern BBQ? And that's exactly what we did. We'll talk more about the wines in a moment, but it's important to highlight straight away that Vadym and Vasyl created an unforgettable evening. Huge thanks to these two geniuses, as well as to all the participants who shared in these beautiful moments during the last warm days of the year.

WinePlace
wavg
sdev
fav
price
volume
QPR
🏅 7th3.80340.11411
UAH 1,896.00
1 L
0.5850 😐
🏅 6th3.86120.08091
UAH 1,789.00
0.75 L
0.5850 😐
🏅 10th3.67260.05170
UAH 1,789.00
0.75 L
0.4037 🤢
🏅 9th3.68310.06850
UAH 1,902.00
0.75 L
0.3996 🤢
🥉 3rd3.99610.01601
UAH 3,761.00
0.75 L
0.5292 😐
🏅 5th3.87470.06811
UAH 2,494.00
0.75 L
0.5090 😐
🏅 8th3.79490.04710
UAH 2,494.00
0.75 L
0.4344 🤢
🥇 1st4.13600.02516
UAH 2,452.00
0.75 L
0.8731 🤔
🥈 2nd4.04490.00772
UAH 2,879.00
0.75 L
0.6682 😐
🏅 4th3.89440.02790
UAH 2,560.00
0.75 L
0.5225 😐

Gut Oggau Maskerade Rosé 2021

Region
Austria » Wein
Type
rose still, dry
Producer
Gut Oggau
Vintage
2021
Grapes
Field Blend
Alcohol
12
Volume
1000 mL
Find at
Gut Oggau Maskerade Rosé 2021

This wine secured the 🏅 7th place in our wine tasting lineup.

Quite recently new vineyards became ours with new field blends of our own – the Maskarade. From the start, we instilled our principles and approaches to viticulture. But these vineyards are still learning. Holding a tiny bit of their beautiful personality and character back. Still hiding their true self from us. We’re not quite sure who the person behind the mask is or is going to be. Only after they have revealed themselves fully, they will become part of the family. So, our Maskerade wines capture a wonderful ephemeral moment. A snapshot in time, along a journey of discovery. Never to be experienced the same way again.

Maskerade Rosé is a blend of partly skin-fermented and partly direct-pressed grapes, spontaneously fermented and aged in large wooden barrels. The wine is bottled unfined, unfiltered, with zero added sulfur.

Gut Oggau Theodora 2021

Region
Austria » Wein
Type
white still, dry
Producer
Gut Oggau
Vintage
2021
Grapes
Grüner Veltliner, Welschriesling
Alcohol
11.5
Volume
750 mL
Find at
Gut Oggau Theodora 2021

This wine secured the 🏅 6th place in our wine tasting lineup.

Theodora is back, bringing joy to our lives once again. Seductive, sassy and supremely well-structured. Spirited, independent and a little stubborn as ever. But that’s just the way we want her, because life is all about being true to yourself. Never backing down and holding your own against the pressures of conformity. In a World full of compromise, we need characters like her to inspire us to stand up for what we believe in. With every sip of Theodora, she may awaken a little of the rebel within you too.

Theodora is crafted from hand-harvested, destemmed grapes. Fermentation takes place in used barrels ranging from 500 to 1500 liters. The wine then undergoes 9 months of elevage in these barrels, without batonnage. As always, it’s bottled unfined, unfiltered, and without any sulfur added.

Gut Oggau Atanasius 2021

Region
Austria » Wein
Type
red still, dry
Producer
Gut Oggau
Vintage
2021
Grapes
Blaufrankisch, Zweigelt
Alcohol
12
Volume
750 mL
Find at
Gut Oggau Atanasius 2021

This wine secured the 🏅 10th place in our wine tasting lineup.

Atanasius can always be counted on. Lusty, hands-on and direct. He never hides anything, rooted in the graveland and the limestone of his homeland. Nor does he feel any need to excuse his behavior. He is longing for something in life. Following his instincts. Taking what the season throws him. Believing in himself and his ability to reach for more. Why don’t we all strive to achieve more than other expect of us? Why don’t we simply trust in ourselves and be the best we can be? Take a sip of Atanasius and see if he inspires you to overcome some of the obstacles in life.

Grapes for Atanasius are hand-harvested and destemmed, with fermentation happening in used 500- and 1200-liter barrels. The juice spends about three weeks in contact with the skins before aging for 12 months in the same barrels, again with no batonnage. The wine is bottled unfined, unfiltered, and sulfur-free.

Gut Oggau Josephine 2020

Region
Austria » Wein
Type
red still, dry
Producer
Gut Oggau
Vintage
2020
Grapes
Blaufrankisch, Roesler
Alcohol
12
Volume
750 mL
Find at
Gut Oggau Josephine 2020

This wine secured the 🏅 9th place in our wine tasting lineup.

We love Josephine for her individual personality, her southern temper and northern dry wit. She always cheers us up, bright and playful yet warm and caring.

Happy to please, but also ready to take you to unexpected places. Her character reflects the vineyards where she grew up, bathed in the warmth of the sun, tempered by the purity and freshness of limestone. The dry heat of 2020 challenged her at times. But some refreshing nights in August cooled her down in a delightful way. She is a free spirit, unable to be contained. Delighting your senses and challenging your sensibilities with every sip you take. Josephine encourages us to open our minds to new ideas and explore new horizons. She inspires us to dare the unknown. That is her gift to the world.

Grapes are hand-harvested and destemmed, fermented in barrels of varying sizes (500, 1000, and 1500 liters), and aged in 500-liter barrels for about 8 months. No batonnage here either, and the wine is bottled unfined, unfiltered, and without sulfur.

Gut Oggau Mechthild 2018

Region
Austria » Wein
Type
white still, dry
Producer
Gut Oggau
Vintage
2018
Grapes
Grüner Veltliner
Alcohol
12
Volume
750 mL
Find at
Gut Oggau Mechthild 2018

This wine secured the 🥉 3rd place in our wine tasting lineup.

We are ever curious to know what story Mechthild will tell next, or what mood we will find her in. She has a delicate yet precise nature that astonishes us every time. You’ll discover a character who doesn’t court attention, but still you are drawn towards her, waiting to drink in her beauty and sophistication. She responds with candour, direct and honest yet with a certain cool and carefree quality. Open yourself up to her elegant, enigmatic character. She’ll make you feel happier and wiser every sip.

From a 60+-year-old plot rooted in limestone and slate soils, the grapes are hand-harvested and destemmed. Fermentation happens on the skins in large, old oak vats, followed by pressing in a vertical press that’s over 200 years old. The wine is matured for two years in old 500-liter barrels and is bottled without fining, filtering, or sulfur addition.

Gut Oggau Timotheus 2021

Region
Austria » Wein
Type
white still, dry
Producer
Gut Oggau
Vintage
2021
Grapes
Grüner Veltliner, Weissburgunder
Alcohol
12
Volume
750 mL
Find at
Gut Oggau Timotheus 2021

This wine secured the 🏅 5th place in our wine tasting lineup.

It always feels good to have Timotheus around. We adore his thoughtfulness and dignity. His wry wit and is impressive stature. Regaling us with stories if the limestone and slate landscape in which he was raised.

Each anecdote an allegory for his insatiable energy and lust for life. And in his company we learn more about life in general and about ourselves to take things as they come. Be at peace with ourselves and the surroundings. And never take ourselves too seriously. Come and make friends with Timotheus, you will get a good dose of healthy, hedonistic soulfulness with every sip you take.

Grapes are hand-harvested and partially destemmed. One-third of the grapes ferment on the skins for about three weeks, while the rest are direct-pressed, before being re-blended. Fermentation occurs in 500-liter barrels, and the wine is aged for 12 months without batonnage. As with all Gut Oggau wines, it’s bottled unfined, unfiltered, and without sulfur.

Gut Oggau Cecilia 2021

Region
Austria » Wein
Type
rose still, dry
Producer
Gut Oggau
Vintage
2021
Grapes
Field Blend
Alcohol
12
Volume
750 mL
Find at
Gut Oggau Cecilia 2021

This wine secured the 🏅 8th place in our wine tasting lineup.

Meet Cecilia! You see her, you taste her, you feel her, she inspires you. She doesn’t car about conventions, and won’t be put in a box. She shows you that it’s good to be a little bit different. Mixed in white and red, rooted on limestone she shines bright, and proves there’s much more beyond the defined categories. A lover of horses, her soil releases distinct character. And we know this is only the start of a beautiful journey we’ll share together. A journey into being one’s true self, without any pretention. Together with Cecilia, we care less about trying to impress, and only about remaining independent.

For Cecilia, two-thirds of the grapes are direct-pressed, while the remaining third is crushed and briefly macerated. The must ferments spontaneously in large wooden vats and matures in 1500-liter barrels. As always, no fining, no filtering, and no added sulfur.

Gut Oggau Emmeram 2019

Region
Austria » Wein
Type
white still, dry
Producer
Gut Oggau
Vintage
2019
Grapes
Gewürztraminer
Alcohol
13.5
Volume
750 mL
Find at
Gut Oggau Emmeram 2019

This wine secured the 🥇 1st place in our wine tasting lineup.

Whenever Emmeram is around, he delights us with his dry humour and open-minded attitude to life. Elusive in nature, still he spices up our lives with his charming character and unique expressions of the limestone terroir where he grew.

He’s simultaneously humble and supremely self-assured. Head in the clouds and feet in the ground. Through his eyes you see the world in a brighter light. Re-evaluating, re-thinking, understanding that what’s right for you, might not be right for another. So, let Emmeram be an example to all of us. To live without prejudice and enjoy the unpredictability and beauty of nature with every sip you take.

The grapes are hand-harvested and destemmed, with fermentation taking place in used 500-liter barrels. The wine undergoes 12 months of elevage in these barrels, without any batonnage. It’s bottled unfined, unfiltered, and without the addition of sulfur.

Gut Oggau Joschuari 2019

Region
Austria » Wein
Type
red still, dry
Producer
Gut Oggau
Vintage
2019
Grapes
Blaufrankisch
Alcohol
12
Volume
750 mL
Find at
Gut Oggau Joschuari 2019

This wine secured the 🥈 2nd place in our wine tasting lineup.

From high up the hills where the vines flourish, Joschuari is the gentle master of all the surveys. His demeanor seems distant, yet he is deeply connected to the region and the spectacular limestone and slate terroir. It shapes his very character, his path through life has been stony but in 2020 he has emerged fully rounded, with nobility, pose and passion.

With the gentle touch of a warm and caring friend, his only desire is for us to di the best we can. To live life the way it comes, care about what matters and focus on what’s essential. Cool and calm, reliable, dedicated, yet full of life. You can’t help but be swirled up by his passion and charmed by his quiet confidence. Experiencing a thrill of the senses and an air of tranquility with every sip.

The grapes are hand-harvested and destemmed, with fermentation occurring in used 500- and 1200-liter barrels. The juice spends around three weeks on the skins before undergoing 12 months of elevage in the same barrels, without batonnage. The wine is bottled unfined, unfiltered, and with no sulfur added.

Gut Oggau Family Reunion Rot 2016

Region
Austria » Weinland
Type
red still, dry
Producer
Gut Oggau
Vintage
2016
Grapes
Blaufrankisch, Zweigelt
Alcohol
12.5
Volume
750 mL
Find at
Gut Oggau Family Reunion Rot 2016

This wine secured the 🏅 4th place in our wine tasting lineup.

2016 has been a vintage to remember for us. Spring brought us heavy frosts, while hailstorms in the summer tested ours and the resilience of our wines. Autumn by contrast was peaceful, forgiving and warm, and in the end delivered us tiny amounts but amazing qualities of grapes. We are growing and living at the whim of nature, so we realized we would have to let go. To let our wines take it all in and retell the story of the year through their complex characters. We have decided to let our family members unite, to go for a family reunion. So in 2016 there is only Gut Oggau Weiß, Gut Oggau Rosé and Gut Oggau Rot in our range. A one of a kind get together of our different wine personalities. All three wines are intrinsically tied to a time and a place. Cumulative energy, focused strength and collective finesse. The Spirit of youth and the wisdom of maturity united. This unique bottling tells the story of a year in the vineyards. Amidst the beauty of nature, at the behest of the elements. And with every sip the whole year unfolds on your palate. We are very happy to have taken this courageous step, because it shows that in the end families should always stick together if the circumstances ask for it. It’s worth it!

Gut Oggau Rot 2016 brings together three family members: the fruity and juicy Atanasius (Blaufränkisch, Zweigelt), the wild Joshuari (Blaufränkisch), and the sublime Bertholdi (Blaufränkisch). Together, they create a spicy, gripping red wine with plenty of ageing potential. The vines, averaging 40 years in age, grow on limestone, slate, and gravel soils. The blend is aged in 500-liter barrels for one year, without batonnage and with no sulfur added at any stage.

Raw scores

WineSerhii KVasyl VBoris BJulia KYevgeniya TVadym OMax DSvetlana DYevgen GSerhii KMariia GNatalia K
3.603.703.803.903.903.503.804.003.804.003.004.50
3.904.054.004.004.004.103.853.004.003.703.754.00
3.803.703.803.803.803.503.503.603.703.503.00
4.003.753.803.704.003.603.703.003.703.704.003.50
4.104.104.003.804.104.003.854.103.904.104.253.90
3.904.003.904.004.103.903.603.803.903.904.754.00
3.703.903.603.853.703.803.903.803.803.704.503.80
4.104.204.004.104.204.104.054.504.104.204.003.80
4.104.154.004.204.204.004.004.004.004.004.004.20
3.903.903.903.854.103.904.103.503.903.803.753.60