Barberry Garden

A wine corner in a crazy world


Univers - 2017


3.83 / 5.0

white still, dry
Vino de Mesa, Spain
1041 UAH, 1141 UAH
not available
Muchada-Léclapart Univers 2017


3.90 / 5.0750 ml@Lo Kyiv

Decanting this wine proved to be a wise choice, though it remains a challenging and complex beverage, and not to its advantage. The bouquet is slightly reductive, presenting an intriguing mix of beeswax, smoke, dried herbs, orange zest, ginger, and a hint of bitter herbs. On the palate, it carries a certain sharpness and power, yet it manages to extend into a long and ultimately rewarding finish. This wine demands attention and patience. And a bit of masochism.

3.80 / 5.0750 ml@Lo Kyiv

The Universe 2017 was a pleasant departure from the ordinary, presenting unexpected sensations to the palate. I was met with an intriguing nose of ripe quince, subtle hints of beeswax, a refreshing touch of citrus in the form of lemon and orange zest, and an undercurrent of ginger. There was a fleeting memory of the sea with a dash of salt and cider. On the palate, it carried a medium body, its acidity well-balanced, and despite its seemingly watery texture, it delivered a good range of flavours. The metallic finish was what set it apart, a bit like the cool touch of a coin. An enjoyable and interesting wine, though not one to lose oneself in entirely.

3.80 / 5.0750 ml@Wix Kyiv Office · A bit of Spain

An interesting Palomino from Andalusia. Hard to guess as it feels like a cold-climate wine. Brine and hair spray - two things that greet you, and then slowly step back to give space to quince, chamomile, and bitter herbs. Fresh, round and delicious. It's not fascinating, but its elegance is somehow charming.

Wine #2 on A bit of Spain event.


Muchada-Léclapart, a collaborative winemaking project between David Léclapart, a distinguished French Champagne producer, and Alejandro Muchada, a skilled winegrower from Cádiz, represents an innovative venture in the historic wine region of Marco de Jerez, located on the Atlantic coast of Andalusia. Their mission is centred on creating a sublime white wine, distinctively without a flower veil and fortification, focusing on the revered Albariza soil and the Palomino grape, the heart and soul of Jerez.

Their vineyards, encompassing three hectares, are nestled within the prime viticultural lands of Sanlúcar de Barrameda, in the esteemed Pago Miraflores. Benefitting from the cool maritime climate provided by the nearby Atlantic Ocean, the vineyards comprise mainly old vines from ancient mass selections of Palomino fino and Muscat from Chipiona. These plots, including La Platera, Miraflores Alta, and Camino del Puerto, are each unique in their soil composition and vine age, contributing distinct qualities to the grapes.

The winemaking philosophy at Muchada-Léclapart is deeply rooted in biodynamic and organic practices, with an ongoing transition towards official certification. Their approach is one of minimal intervention: eschewing rotavators to protect the living soils, avoiding herbicides and pesticides, and employing surface ploughs for soil management. This dedication extends to their vineyards, where they practice careful pruning and limit yields to between 5000 and 8000 kg per hectare. This lower yield, a mere third of the usual production in the area, is instrumental in achieving a balance of quality and concentration, highlighting the nuanced character and subtle elegance of the well-crafted Palomino grape.

In their cellar, every detail is meticulously managed to ensure the integrity of the wine. The harvest, conducted manually in the early morning to avoid grape heating, is followed by a gentle four-hour pressing using a Champagne press. Fermentation is spontaneous, without the addition of selected yeasts or acids, and only a minimal amount of sulfur is used. The wine matures on its lees for nine months without disturbance and is then bottled without filtering or cold stabilizing to retain all its aromatic complexity and nuances.