Champagne Bag Vol. 6

Champagne's modern renaissance spans from tiny grower-producers bottling single-vineyard expressions to grand houses ageing wines for decades in their chalk cellars. These five wines illuminate the remarkable range of philosophies, terroirs, and techniques that define contemporary Champagne production, contrasting artisanal grower estates with prestigious négociant houses.

The fundamental divide in Champagne separates grower-producers (RM), who bottle wine from their own vineyards, from négociant houses (NM), which purchase most of their grapes. Growers, representing a tiny fraction of the region, typically produce under 100,000 bottles annually from single villages or closely located vineyards, prioritising terroir expression over consistency. Grand marques, which control two-thirds of shipments while owning just 10-12% of vineyard land, blend fruit from dozens of villages to maintain a consistent house style across vintages. This structural difference creates profoundly different wine philosophies: growers showcase specific chalk soils and microclimates, while houses orchestrate symphonies from across the region.

Hubert Favier Brut Réserve NV

Hubert Favier Brut Réserve NV emerges from Urville in the Côte des Bar, Champagne's southernmost subregion that fought for inclusion after the 1908-1911 riots. This "Autre cru" (80% classification) estate demonstrates authentic grower heritage outside the Grand Cru system. The powerfully calcareous soils here differ from classic northern chalk, combining with a warmer, more continental climate to produce distinctively robust wines. The family's 8 hectares, certified Haute Valeur Environnementale niveau 3 and Viticulture Durable en Champagne, yield an 82% Pinot Noir, 15% Chardonnay, 3% Pinot Meunier blend aged for over 100 months on lees (for this specific bottle). This extended ageing develops complexity and sustained length that defines their "robustesse" house style, representing the Côte des Bar's more powerful, fruit-forward character.

Chalk and cool limestone lead, then cherry plum, citrus zest and honeycomb, a soft floral lift, brioche warmth and baked red apple. The mousse is easygoing; the palate bright and round, very approachable, with a clean mineral line keeping things in shape. There's a nib of bitterness on the tail and a faint boiled-onion echo I could do without, but they stay background. Overall it's plush and tasty without fuss. I'd love a little more cut and a cleaner finish. Yet it's very approachable and easy to enjoy.

Moussé Fils L'Orage 2021

Moussé Fils L'Orage 2021 tells an extraordinary story of Champagne's grower community. After Cédric Moussé lost 85% of his harvest to frost, hail, and mildew, eleven fellow winemakers contributed Chardonnay to create this unique vintage-dated wine. The 2021 growing season brought 12 frost days with temperatures to -8°C, summer hailstorms, persistent rainfall, and mildew outbreaks, resulting in Champagne's smallest harvest since 1981 at 60% below average.

Moussé Fils typically showcases Cuisles' unique illite green clay - the only producer featuring this rare terroir that gives Pinot Meunier almost Chardonnay-like lift. The estate has practised organic viticulture since 2014, using horse ploughing, essential oil treatments, and following biodynamic calendars. L'Orage comprises 100% Chardonnay from 12 different crus, fermented in stainless steel with 24 months lees ageing and just 1.5g/L dosage.

Zesty and inviting straight away: orange oil and lemon bonbons, peach yoghurt and custard, a line of lime and chalk dust, clean linen and spring flowers, a twist of tarragon. The mousse is fine, acidity bright; the palate feels round and creamy but never heavy, gliding rather than pushing. A faint raw edge reads as energy, with more chalk and lime pulling the finish taut and a subtle savoury flicker that keeps it moreish. Super orangey and ripe yet weightless.

Louis Roederer Cristal 2015

Louis Roederer Cristal 2015 represents Champagne's first prestige cuvée, created in 1876 for a peasant strangely named Alexander II (yikes). The 2015 sources from 45 plots across seven Grand Cru villages - for the first time since 2002, all eligible plots were used. These include Verzenay and Verzy (Pinot Noir) in Montagne de Reims, plus Avize, Mesnil-sur-Oger, and Cramant (Chardonnay) in Côte des Blancs, all farmed biodynamically since 2012 with DEMETER certification.

The 2015 vintage brought drought conditions with 39% of normal summer rainfall and record heat comparable to 2003, yet Cristal maintained balance through deep chalky limestone soils providing water retention and mineral expression. The 60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay blend underwent 25% oak fermentation without malolactic to preserve acidity, then aged 6 years sur lattes plus 8 months post-disgorgement. Obviously, we are opening this bottle too soon, as it has tremendous potential.

Needs serious patience - this is a brooding, introverted Champagne that unfolds slowly but beautifully. Citrus oil and mint emerge first, then white flowers, stone fruits, and subtle pastry notes with hints of honey and wet pebbles. Lemon sorbet on the palate, but with serious vinous depth. Medium to full-bodied, layered, with chalky extract and pinpoint mousse. And it just doesn't tire in the glass. Obviously too young still, hiding plenty.

Bollinger La Grande Année 2008

Bollinger La Grande Année 2008 embodies this house's traditional philosophy: estate vineyards, Pinot Noir dominance, 100% oak barrel fermentation, magnum-stored reserve wines, and extended ageing. Bollinger uniquely maintains 3,500 oak barrels with their own cooper, some casks exceeding 50 years old. The 2008 vintage ranks among Champagne's greatest, with spectacular September weather creating full phenolic ripeness with brilliant acidity - many producers call it "the 1996 done right."

La Grande Année's 71% Pinot Noir, 29% Chardonnay sources from 18 crus (91% Grand Cru), including Aÿ and Verzenay for power, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and Cramant for elegance. Fermented entirely in old oak with both alcoholic and malolactic fermentation - unique among major producers for vintage champagne - the wine aged 9.5 years on lees before hand-disgorgement in November 2018. The inaugural use of Bollinger's narrower-neck "1846" bottle slows oxygen exchange, extending ageing potential. With an 8g/L dosage (???), it perfectly showcases Bollinger's oxidative style: breadth, creaminess, and toasty brioche notes balanced with vibrant fruit.

Not the best bottle - something off at first, hints of damp cellar that thankfully blow off with a bit of time. Once it settles, it reveals its beauty: full-bodied, broad and vinous, with refined mousse and a tightly wound, concentrated core. Incisive acids keep it fresh and vibrant. Wet stones, crème brûlée, caramel, and marzipan emerge, with a long, precise, chalky finish. IMO it should be more elegant. Whether it's the bottle or just how this vintage is ageing, it's somewhat heavy. Would not be able to demolish this solo - too much of a workout. Still compelling, but not quite what it should be.

Bollinger R.D. 2008

Bollinger R.D. 2008 represents Madame Lily Bollinger's 1960s innovation: instead of creating a new luxury cuvée, she believed their existing wines were already optimal, requiring only extended lees ageing with minimal dosage. While starting identically to La Grande Année, R.D. ages over 13 years on lees versus 9, with disgorgement in late 2022/early 2023 and just 3g/L dosage versus 8g/L.

These additional five years transform the wine through enhanced autolysis, creating deeper brioche, hazelnut, and biscuity complexity with greater textural richness. The 179-hectare estate provides 60-65% of production needs from prized Belemnite chalk soils - microscopic marine organisms fossilised over millions of years, providing excellent drainage, heat retention, and mineral content.

Super concentrated and charged with power, yet somehow graceful - properly aristocratic stuff. Crisp orchard fruit, orange peel, and lemongrass meet freshly baked bread, subtle fino sherry notes, wet stones, and macadamia with marzipan. Medium to full-bodied, with a deep fruit core animated by racy acids and refined pinpoint mousse. Bone-dry finish. Still bursting with youthful energy, which is mad for the age, but maybe not so mad for this vintage. Look, it's brilliantly made - harmonious, complex, compelling. But honestly? Not quite my style. Wouldn't want a whole bottle solo. Still have to respect the craft here though. Damn well executed.

Raw scores