Borgogno Barolo Cannubi Vertical

When life hands you a chance to taste a vertical from the very heart of Barolo - from the legendary Cannubi vineyard - only a fool would turn it down. I'm not that fool. And, clearly, neither were the others. As soon as Vasyl announced the tasting - with a price that made it all the more appealing - there were so many eager hands mouths that we ended up opening almost everything Alessio had brought from negociants. Almost everything. Twenty of us gathered.

I could go on about how rare this kind of event is - not just in Ukraine, but globally - but let's leave that nonsense to some other place. We are talking about Cannubi made by a winery that, back in 1955, was defending itself from the accusations of the French Institute des Appellations d'Origines over the use of a Burgundian-sounding name on Italian soil. And yes, there's something distinctly Burgundian in Borgogno - not just in the surname.

You can argue endlessly about whether making Barolo from a single cru is traditional or not. But I'm still too young to take sides in the long war between modernists and their predecessors. Eventually, everyone ends up in the same place - around a table. Like we did - at Lo, full of horses on the walls and broken Riedel glasses on the shelves (nothing to laugh about, mind you).

Cannubi can be seen as a vineyard assembling all local extremes - where clay and sand meet. Textbook stuff. Clay brings structure and power, and sand brings finesse and elegance. You'd think the mix would average out to represent "typical Barolo", but it doesn't. Cannubi still speaks with its own voice - especially through the lens of a winemaker with conviction.

And no, the gaps in our lineup weren't due to missing bottles. The wine simply wasn't made in 2013 or 2016. which, in a way, is the most respectful kind of absence.

But enough of that. Better to look at the results.

Vintage differences

                2011                                                              2012                                                               2014                                                          2015                                                 2017                                             2018

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Weather Summary Warm spring, hot August, uneven ripening, Nebbiolo adapted well Cool spring, well-distributed rain, perfect late-season ripening Wet summer, high fungal pressure, great late-season weather Abundant snow, dry hot summer, ideal late ripening Hot, dry, low yield, careful vineyard work key Classic vintage, frequent spring rain, slow even ripening Harvest Time Early Early October October Early October Early September October Whole Cluster No No No No 5% 10% Fermentation Spontaneous, 12 days, steel, 22--30°C Spontaneous, 12 days, concrete, 22--30°C Spontaneous, 12 days, concrete, 22--28°C Spontaneous, 20 days, concrete, 22--28°C Spontaneous, 15 days, concrete, 22--28°C Spontaneous, 15 days, concrete, 22--28°C Maceration Submerged cap, 30 days, 25°C Submerged cap, 30 days, 26°C Submerged cap, 40+ days Submerged cap, 40+ days, with malolactic 25 days submerged cap, incl. whole cluster 25 days submerged cap, incl. whole cluster Malolactic Post-alcoholic, 15 days at 22°C Post-alcoholic, 15 days at 22°C During maceration, 15 days at 22°C During maceration During maceration During maceration Ageing 4 years in 4500L Slavonian oak + bottle 4 years in 4500L Slavonian oak + bottle 4 years in 4500L Slavonian oak + bottle 4 years in 4500L Slavonian oak + bottle 3+ years in 4500L Slavonian oak + bottle 2 years 8 months in 4500L Slavonian oak + bottle

Giacomo Borgogno Barolo Cannubi Riserva 2018

2018 in the Langhe began with a long, wet winter - welcome after the heat and drought of 2017, as it helped restore soil water reserves. Winter conditions persisted into early March, with below-average temperatures delaying vine development, which resumed gradually and evenly by the end of the month. Budbreak was uniform, marking a strong start. Spring brought frequent rainfall and cool temperatures, suggesting a return to a classic, elegant vintage profile. May and early June saw persistent showers, making vineyard work demanding but ultimately rewarding. Flowering and fruit set occurred under ideal conditions. The warmer months that followed were marked by stable weather and gradual development. September continued this favourable trend, and by October the grapes were in excellent condition. Yields were slightly below average, but quality was notably high - clearly a classic year.

Nebbiolo grapes from Cannubi - known for its stratified soils of sand, calcareous clay marl, and dominant silt - were carefully selected. In the cellar, grapes were destemmed and gently pressed. Fermentation was spontaneous, taking place in large concrete tanks at 22 - 28°C over roughly 15 days. This was followed by a 25-day submerged cap maceration, during which malolactic fermentation occurred.

To highlight the volume and depth contributed by silt-rich soils, 10% of the harvest followed a separate path: whole-cluster fermentation. Grapes were layered in the tank - crushed and destemmed, whole-cluster, crushed, and so on - until the final top layer, maintaining a 50/50 ratio. This allowed for both intra-berry fermentation (within intact grapes) and conventional fermentation in the free-run juice. Early cap management was gentle to preserve whole berries. As pump-overs progressed, berries broke, releasing sugars and extending fermentation. Once dry, the wine was racked and pressed to extract remaining sugars, triggering a final fermentation stage. After completion, the whole-cluster and traditional lots were blended.

Ageing lasted 2 years and 8 months in large Slavonian oak casks (4500L), followed by a brief passage in concrete and extended bottle maturation prior to release.

Beautiful nose - red flowers, pomegranate, licorice. A touch of underbrush, white mushrooms, and that dusty, herbal depth of old pressed bai mu dan. Still very young and not yet fully composed, but the structure is there. High acidity, tannins on the younger side, but already drinkable. It doesn't hide its youth, yet it lets you in.

Giacomo Borgogno Barolo Cannubi Riserva 2017

2017 was hot and dry, with limited rainfall and an early harvest. Winter brought little snow and mild conditions, while spring saw above-average rainfall and temperatures, prompting early vine development. Late April frosts affected many regions of Italy, including parts of Barolo, though higher-altitude vineyards were spared. From May onward, the weather stabilised, improving phytosanitary conditions. Summer was marked by intense heat and drought, but late August rains helped restore balance during the critical ripening phase. September brought cooler temperatures and ideal day-night shifts, which preserved freshness. Yields were low - just over half the average - but selective harvesting delivered grapes of excellent quality. Nebbiolo once again demonstrated its adaptability in difficult conditions. In the vineyard, no shoot topping or green harvesting was done; instead, targeted soil aeration preserved moisture. The result: wines with ripe, polished tannins despite the heat.

In the cellar, grapes were destemmed and pressed, then fermented spontaneously in large concrete tanks at 22 - 28°C for around 15 days. This was followed by 25 days of submerged cap maceration in concrete, during which malolactic fermentation also occurred.

In parallel, 5% of the total underwent whole-cluster fermentation to emphasise volume and structure derived from silt-rich soils. Grapes were layered in the tank: crushed, then whole-cluster, and so on, ending with a destemmed layer - roughly 50/50. This method enabled simultaneous intra-berry and traditional fermentation. Early punch-downs were gentle to avoid breaking whole berries; fermentation began both inside intact grapes and in the surrounding juice. As pumping over progressed, skins gradually broke, releasing sugars and extending fermentation. After full sugar conversion, the wine was racked and pressed, releasing more juice and triggering a secondary fermentation wave. Once completed, both fermentation lots were blended.

The wine was aged for just over three years in large Slavonian oak casks (4500L), followed by a passage through concrete and extended bottle refinement before release.

Compared to 2018, 2017 feels softer and less arresting on the nose - more mellow, with fewer flowers and less vibrant fruit. Dark tea, licorice, and a faint trace of cured meat give it a savoury edge. It started off closed but gradually opened up, offering better acidity and a juicier palate. Chewier than 2018, less delicate perhaps, but also less austere. There's a touch of sweetness in the finish that rounds it out, though it still feels like a quieter sibling.

Giacomo Borgogno Barolo Cannubi Riserva 2015

2015 opened with heavy snowfall, providing ample water reserves in the soil. A mild spring from February onward accelerated vine development, which remained ahead of schedule throughout the season. Late May and early June brought some rainfall, but from mid-June through July, conditions were dry and warm, with sustained above-average temperatures. Thanks to earlier water accumulation, the vines experienced no stress. Early summer conditions led to an anticipated harvest, roughly ten days ahead of 2014, though still within the bounds of a "classic" vintage. Yields were average, allowing for precise crop thinning. Nebbiolo ripened perfectly, with excellent tannin quality, suggesting structured, age-worthy wines of elegance and balance. This is considered one of the standout vintages of recent decades.

In the cellar, grapes were destemmed and gently pressed. Fermentation took place spontaneously with indigenous yeasts in concrete tanks, maintained between 22°C and 28°C over approximately 20 days. This was followed by a prolonged submerged cap maceration lasting more than 40 days, during which malolactic fermentation occurred. As temperatures rose in spring, the wine was racked into 4500L Slavonian oak casks for four years of maturation, followed by a concrete passage and extended bottle ageing before release.

Oh my. The nose hits hard - chocolate, dried fruits, withered flowers, truffles, smelly clay, and that unmistakable Ya'an cha touch - a mix of fermented dark tea with raspberry notes. It's captivating, slightly feral but utterly beautiful. On the palate, it's still unmistakably green - tannin is fierce, structure is rigid, but somehow the wine pulls itself together in near-perfect balance. The aftertaste lingers like a whispered spell: sublimated raspberry, aged tea leaves, mushrooms. A haunting, grounded kind of elegance.

Giacomo Borgogno Barolo Cannubi Riserva 2014

2014 was one of the most challenging vintages to manage in the vineyard in recent years. Winter began mildly, and an early but gradual spring led to earlier vine development compared to the previous year. Summer temperatures were within the seasonal average, but rainfall was unusually intense. Combined with moderate temperatures, this created ideal conditions for fungal pressure, demanding constant attention in the vineyard to preserve grape health. Fortunately, September and October brought favourable weather, with good diurnal shifts that supported phenolic ripening. Nebbiolo performed well, showing promise for elegant, balanced wines with moderate alcohol, notable acidity, and refined mineral aromatics.

Fermentation was spontaneous, using indigenous yeasts in concrete tanks at controlled temperatures between 22°C and 28°C over about 12 days. This was followed by an extended submerged cap maceration lasting over 40 days. After racking, malolactic fermentation proceeded for 15 days at a constant 22°C. The wine was then transferred to large Slavonian oak casks (4500L) for 4 years of ageing, followed by a passage through concrete and an extended period of bottle refinement prior to release.

Cured paprika, grilled chicken, a whole spice rack left to smoulder. Red apple adds a flicker of freshness before the leather rolls in. Juicy and sharp on the entry, but the tannin is bone-dry - like chewing on parchment. It's a tough vintage and the wine shows its bruises, but it never fully collapses. Easily the weakest of the lineup, yet still unmistakably in the top tier. Brutal, drying, but not without merit.

Giacomo Borgogno Barolo Cannubi Riserva 2012

The 2012 harvest was modest in quantity but yielded high-quality fruit with excellent sanitary conditions. Winter began mildly, with colder conditions and heavy snowfall arriving later than usual in February, helping to build strong water reserves. Spring was cool and wet through March and April, while temperatures rose sharply in May, accelerating vegetative growth. Summer brought consistently warm conditions, peaking in late August, but water stress was avoided thanks to the earlier accumulation of reserves. Nebbiolo was harvested in early October, showing great structure and clear potential for long ageing.

In the cellar, grapes were destemmed and gently pressed. Fermentation occurred spontaneously with native yeasts in concrete tanks over 12 days. Temperature was controlled, beginning at 22 - 25°C and rising to 29 - 30°C by the end of fermentation. This was followed by a 30-day submerged cap maceration at a stable 26°C. After racking, malolactic fermentation took place over approximately 15 days at 22°C. The wine was then matured for 4 years in 4500L Slavonian oak casks, followed by extended bottle ageing before release.

Charming and fragrant - paprika, red flowers, forest berries, and a touch of mushroom. The nose pulls you in gently, then the structure tightens: high acidity, firm yet polished tannin. Still young, clearly, but already seamless and well-balanced. A wine that feels effortless to drink, though it lacks the gravitas and layered depth of the 2011. Still, a beautiful showing.

One bottle was more oxidized. This bottle was clearly off. Vegetal and oxidised, veering toward Madeira territory. On the palate it's slightly sweet but redeemed somewhat by decent acidity. The tannin, however, is overly dry and the whole thing feels dusty and tired. Just not in a good place - if it ever was.

Giacomo Borgogno Barolo Cannubi Riserva 2011

2011 was an atypical year marked by an early harvest and moderate yields. A mild winter gave way to unusually warm April temperatures, pushing vegetative growth nearly two weeks ahead of schedule. June and early July were relatively cool (avg. 22°C), yet vine development remained rapid. A hot August caused uneven ripening and some berry dehydration, which reduced overall volume. Among local varieties, Nebbiolo adapted best, delivering grapes with excellent tannic structure, vivid colour, and a complex aromatic profile.

In the cellar, grapes were destemmed and gently pressed. Fermentation was spontaneous, using indigenous yeasts over 12 days in stainless steel tanks. Temperature was controlled: starting at 22 - 25°C, rising to 29 - 30°C by the end. This was followed by a 30-day submerged cap maceration at a stable 25°C. After racking, malolactic fermentation began and continued for 15 days at 22°C. The wine was then aged for 4 years in large 4500L Slavonian oak casks, followed by extended bottle ageing before release.

Still very much in its infancy - tight, coiled, and brimming with latent energy. A layered mix of red and black fruits, underbrush, mushrooms, tar, and a delicate touch of hibiscus. The palate is dense and juicy, with piercing acidity and assertive tannins that demand patience. It's all promise for now - concentrated and structured, but years away from revealing its full story. Still so damn delicious, complex and composed.

Raw scores